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August 22nd, 2003, 02:11 PM
#11
Inactive Member
So what's the set-up you're using with the 500w worklights?
How are you supressing/controlling the spill etc?
I'm sure I've been with photographers that have used those gels over blondes and even more powerful lights etc and they haven't caught fire. I don't really want to risk finding out the hard way though - literally induction by fire!
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August 22nd, 2003, 04:38 PM
#12
Inactive Member
I can't believe what I'm hearing.
I've use gel on redheads and blondes for years and NOTHING has ever caught fire. I refuse to believe i'm that lucky. You do turn off the lights once and while between takes, right?
Seriously this has never happened on any of the shoots I've ever worked on.
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August 22nd, 2003, 08:02 PM
#13
Senior Hostboard Member
redheads and blonds have scrims which save you from a burst bubble, but also any gels attached (properly) are far enough away from the bulb that they generally won't ignite.
worklights are more like half kilowatt electric fireplaces that happen to give off hard light ;-)
barn doors, flags, dingles, gobos and a pair of thick leather gloves are also useful.
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August 23rd, 2003, 04:28 AM
#14
Inactive Member
Open face lights will melt gels more readily than fresnel lights will. The 500w worklights are much like the 500w Lowell open face lights, which I rarely use unless they are lighting the lowell version of the Chimera soft box. Open face light give off a very hard light, and are best used as a bounce. the problem with the worklights is controlling the spill. Look for some small rectangular sheet metal ducting (dryer vents, or air conditioning) fixtures that you can custom fit to the light as a snoot, this will give you a more directional light, plus have something to mount gels or diffusion on that is far enough from the bulb to not melt. Then get a 4x8 sheet of 3/4 inch white styrofoam insulation, cut it in half, and you have 2 4x4 beadboard bounce cards. Make a hand dimmer from a 1k (or 650w if all you will be using is the 500w light) wall dimmer. Just wire it into an extention cord, and plug it into your lamp and you have control over the intensity. Keep in mind that the color temperature gets warmer as you dim down. End of Pat's guerilla lighting seminar of the day.
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August 23rd, 2003, 05:09 AM
#15
HB Forum Moderator
I don't like those lights. I bought three once because I thought they would be a great bargain, But the handle is cumbersome and as a floor light they are obnoxious, and hot.
I think it's got this little metal wing nut for tightening the angle of the light, which is quite a stupid design. They are blinding and heaven forbid someone walk into one. The metal grid can even cast unwanted shadows. If you find a satisfactory way to mount them to a light stand, then more power to you.
Also, you might want to play with the 250 watt and 300 watt bulbs. The 250 and 300 watt lights are not quite as harsh or hot a light, and the 250 watt and 300 watt bulbs are super-cheap.
I think all lights should go on real stands. If you need lights on the ground, they make stands for that too.
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August 24th, 2003, 01:36 PM
#16
Inactive Member
Generic,Justin M i cant believe you have never had a gel not even melt ?,
Like Mike siad these lights are mini electric fires (didnnt we use them on Ad-Astra ?) one thing definelty not to do is use black wrap on or near them. unless you want to toast some marshmellows,
Also if you get a copy of somethjing like screw fix magazine or your local industrial shop, you can get support bars for them,
Think the main thing coming from here is use them with caution ,
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September 2nd, 2003, 06:39 PM
#17
Inactive Member
i was thinking of getting two of these: http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/...27833&id=12156
a key light and a fill light, or a key light bounced off something and a background light.
But from the sounds of things that will just totaly blind the actors never mind cook them.
Is there not a way i can make these lights suitable by using lower powered bulbs? I really dont have a clue about such things but im after enough light to get good camcorder results indoors.
While im on the topic, is background light very important? It would seem to me like the more depth you can have the more professional and "filmic" it will look.
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September 3rd, 2003, 02:52 AM
#18
Inactive Member
Here's some info I found on using halogen work lights for filming.
Volksmovie.com
Some interesting stuff there.
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September 3rd, 2003, 07:33 AM
#19
Inactive Member
Excellent. Thanks for that.
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September 22nd, 2003, 10:01 AM
#20
Inactive Member
That metal, hinged idea is very good.
But how about this as an ultra CHEAP and very EASY alternative - kitchen foil
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